Tuesday, 8 December 2015

Unknown

Some basic iOS 7 tips and tricks that will help you a lot

These are our favourites - let us know yours in the comments, and check out our iOS 7 review for the full lowdown!
35 brilliant iOS 7 tips and tricks

1. Camera: shoot in burst mode

The redesigned Camera app has a nifty trick up its sleeve: if you want to shoot in burst mode, taking multiple shots in quick succession, just click and hold the volume-up button.

2. Multitasking: quit multiple apps

You probably know that you can quit running apps by double-tapping the Home button and flicking the offending app upwards, but you might not have tried it with multiple fingers to force-quit more than one app at a time. We've made it work with three apps on our iPhone, although doing the same on an iPad means getting your nose involved too.

3. Notifications: begone!

When you receive a new notification, you can still swipe right to open the appropriate app - but if you just want rid of it you can now swipe up to hide it.

4. All new balancing act

iOS 7 is bad news for novelty app developers: not only has the Control Centre killed the market for flashlight apps, but Compass has done the same for spirit level apps too.
If you launch the app you'll see the familiar dots at the bottom of the screen that indicate there's a second screen: swipe it and you'll see a spirit level for all your checking-things-are-flat needs.

5. Phone, FaceTime and Messages: block contacts

Does someone have your number and you wish they didn't? Successfully avoid exes, creditors and the angry husbands and wives of your lovers with iOS 7's excellent blocking features. Add the number to your Contacts, scroll down to the bottom of the screen and tap Block This Caller to refuse incoming calls, messages (including SMS and MMS) and FaceTime calls.

6. Messages: see the timestamps

iOS 7 likes to keep things nice and minimalist, but if key information isn't visible there's a good chance it's just a swipe away - so for example in Messages, you won't see timestamps against each SMS, MMS or iMessage. Want to know when they were sent? Swipe left.

7. Apps: swipe backwards

This little tip is a handy time-saver: when you're finished reading an email or message, or fiddling with Settings, or exploring a Music playlist, swipe backwards to return to the previous page. If you're at the first level (such as your list of mailboxes in Mail, or the first Settings screen) nothing will happen.

8. Location Services: see where you've been

iOS 7 keeps an eye on where you go to help it personalise features such as the Notification Centre, and to help improve the accuracy of Maps. If you fancy a look you'll find it in Settings > Privacy > Location Services > System Services > Frequent Locations. You'll see a list and a map, with blue circles showing where you've been and when. You can clear the history from this page, and if you think it's a little creepy you can turn it off from the System Services page.

9. Newsstand: put it away!

We like Newsstand, but we don't like the way it can't be stuck in a folder like Apple's other stock apps. Hallelujah for iOS 7, then, because at last that absurd restriction has been removed.

10 . Settings: make iOS 7 easier on the eye

We like the new interface, but it isn't for everyone. If you have problems with your sight or just want to make iOS more legible, you'll find some useful settings in Settings > General > Accessibility. You can make all system text bold, increase the size of text in apps that support Apple's Dynamic Type, scale down motion effects such as the parallax effect or invert the colours to make iOS 7 look like a 1980s electro-pop album cover.
Read More

Saturday, 9 May 2015

Unknown

How to Turn Google Chrome into Jarvis from Iron Man

Imagine this scenario.

Sit down at your desk with a cup of coffee. Open up your laptop, with a blank desktop except for a clean Google Chrome icon. Click on Google Chrome. Your browser fires up, and all of this happens instantly:
  • Chrome welcomes you back by your name
  • Gives you a beautiful scenic photograph background with a daily quote
  • Immediately plays your favorite music for getting work done
  • Shows you your to-do list for the day
  • Launches your calendar for a list of events that week
  • Opens your email, and shows you what messages you sent were opened while you were gone
  • Starts Drive, with all your synced files, docs, and spreadsheets ready to rock
  • Begins tracking your time spent on any chosen project
  • Blocks access to any distracting sites (and ads) during your designated “work” hours
Sounds like Jarvis from Iron Man, doesn’t it? All of these features, plus a few more we will outline, are easily available through Google Chrome settings, plugins, and some cool websites. In this post, we’ll walk through exactly how to set this up.
Let’s rock and roll.

Step One: Get Google Chrome. Duh.

If you ain’t talking Chrome, I don’t wanna talk. Google Chrome is one of the best browsers on the market. There are some drawbacks, like taking up active memory, but it’s completely worth it. Google Chrome plays nice with almost every website, comes with tons of cool plugins, and has the development power of Google behind it.

Step Two: Productivity Plugins Galore

Google Chrome comes with a marketplace, filled with games, apps, and plugins. Many of these plugins are extremely useful for when you are trying to get stuff done. Here are a few of the highly recommended.
Momentum for Chrome
This is one of the most essential and beautiful plugins you can have. Momentum brings the Jarvis element to life, with a clock, weather, beautiful background, to-do list, and motivational quote. It’s a fantastic thing to see when you open up your internet browser.
When you start your day, Momentum will ask you “What is your main focus for today?”. Type in your answer, and each time you open a new tab with the intention to get distracted, you can be reminded of your goals.
Momentum has a simple to-do list feature in the bottom right that makes checking things off a breeze. It will remember your task list, so you can pick up where you left off each time you open up Chrome.
AdBlock for Chrome
This is an unpopular opinion, but I don’t think advertising is bad at all. It’s pretty amazing that we can have a service like YouTube for free, due to the support of advertising. What I don’t enjoy is invasive, un-targeted, overwhelming advertising that ruins the user experience.
Make advertising a great part of your product, like where Snapchat’s new Discovery feature is heading. Install AdBlock for Chrome, and the plugin will do it’s best to clean up web pages from advertising to keep you focused on the article, video, or search results.
News Feed Eradicator for Chrome
One of my absolute favorites, News Feed Eradicator is for those who compulsively type in facebook.com to the URL bar every five minutes. This plugin replaces your news feed with a quote. Usually, that quote has something to say about wasting time and taking back control of your life.
Block Site for Chrome
With Block Site, you can set days and times that websites are off limits. You can choose a list of sites or keywords that will redirect to a better website of your choice each time they are typed into the URL bar. For most people, all they need is this gentle reminder to get back on task.
For those that need even more monitoring, Block Site has a nuclear option, that makes it extremely difficult to turn off or uninstall. Use at your own risk!
Sidekick by HubSpot for Chrome
This is another personal favorite, and it’s extremely helpful for those who communicate through email, work in sales, or just like to keep a pulse on the flow of work. With Sidekick, each email you send out is tracked. You’ll get a notification about who opened your sent email, when, how many times, and if they clicked on any links. How cool is that?
(As a side note, you will also need Application Launcher for Google Drive. It allows you to edit documents offline along with some other cool stuff. You’ll be prompted to install this when you create your Google Drive account.)
There are tons of other amazing plugins for Chrome. Project management, sharing, music, and everything else under the sun. Make sure to leave us some of your favorites in the comments.

Step Three: Customize Your Launch Mode


Startup Pages

When you launch Google Chrome, it will automatically launch all the installed and activated plugins, sign you into your Google account, and open up any windows and tabs you’ve told it to. The default is to go to your most visited websites, but if you are a normal person, those are definitely not where you want to go when you are trying to get work done.
Instead, head over to settings in the top right corner, and click on “Open a specific page or set of pages on startup”. Here is where you can program any website you choose to launch when you open Chrome. Here is our setup:
  • New Tab Window (So Momentum shows up first)
  • Gmail
  • Google Calendar
  • Pandora (Instantly starts playing the last station)
  • Google Drive (Everything we do is in Drive)
  • Toggl (Easily track your time for billing or personal analysis)

Mission

Set up Google Drive for maximum effectiveness.

If you’re not on Google Drive, you are missing out. Drive is like Dropbox mixed with Microsoft Word. All of your files accessible in the cloud, the ability to create docs and spreadsheets from anywhere, collaborate with anyone, and more.
Because we use Google Drive for everything, we created The Complete Conquer Your Today System, which you can get for free. It’s got 7 Google Sheets templates to manage your fitness, finances, goals, network, projects, and more. Plus, you get a guide to help you set Google Drive up from nothing into a productivity machine.


Read More

Thursday, 7 May 2015

Unknown

Share you views



Image result for click here survey
Hi, guyss... I hope you all are enjoying our posts which provide so much of knowledge to you. We are willing to expand ourselves into other domains also. This time we just need a little help from you there is a small survey which you can fill to provide us some of your experiences about online shopping and e-commerce business. Please feel free to share your views in the comment box.


click here to fill the survey. While filling the survey be present with genuine responses.


Take part in our online survey
Read More

Wednesday, 6 May 2015

Unknown

Micromax Canvas Laptab With Windows 8.1 Launched at Rs. 14,999

After launching multiple handsets, tablets and television models, Micromax on Thursday entered the laptop-tablet hybrid market with its Micromax Canvas Laptab. The 2-in-1 device will be available starting May 6 initially exclusively on Amazon India at Rs. 14,999.
micromax_canvas_laptab_with_windows.jpg
The single-SIM supporting Micromax Canvas Laptab runs on Windows 8.1 with Bing and is also upgradable to Windows 10 OS. The tablet features an 10.1-inch IPS display with a WXGA (1280x800 pixels) resolution. It is powered by a 1.33GHz quad-core Intel Atom Z3735F processor (up to 1.83GHz in Burst mode) coupled with 2GB of DDR3L R
AM. It sports 32GB of inbuilt storage, which can be further expanded via a microSD card. The buyers would additionally receive 1TB of cloud storage on Microsoft's OneDrive service.
The Canvas Laptab equips a 2-megapixel rear and front-facing camera and a 7700mAh battery, which is rated to offer a usage time of 10 hours. It measures 210.8x124.2x9.95mm, weighs 1.1kgs and is available in Black colour variant only. Connectivity features of the device feature Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 4.0, USB and 3G. The Micromax Canvas Laptab offers one year of free subscription for Microsoft Office 365 Personal apps. It also houses dual speakers placed either sides on the rear panel.
Commenting on the launch Vineet Taneja, CEO, Micromax Informatics Limited, said, "Today's launch marks our entry into the PC segment, where we intend to drive category growth and not only garner an available market share. We believe that our vision complements the initiatives for Digital India, and we will be launching a range of exciting products over the next few months in the category."
Micromax had first introduced a device called the LapTab back at CES 2014, revealing it would be dual-boot tablet with Android 4.2.2 Jelly Bean and Windows 8. It was set to launch soon after at under Rs. 30,000. This never happened, and over a year later, the Indian brand has brought a Windows-only version of the tablet to India.
The company's foray into the laptop-tablet hybrid market comes after its recent launch of its first 4K TVs in March. The range includes two televisions, the smaller being 42-inches and the larger being 49-inches, priced at Rs. 39,990 (42-inch) and Rs. 49,990 (49-inch).
The TVs feature 4K (Ultra High Definition) display panels with a resolution of 3840x2160 pixels. They are also smart TVs, and run Android 4.4 KitKat with Google Play, Facebook, Twitter, Gmail and other apps preloaded. Navigation is through a Smart Somato-Sensory remote control, which acts as an air mouse to make navigation around the user interface easier.
Micromax Canvas Laptab

Micromax Canvas Laptab

Display

10.10-inch

Processor

1.33GHz

Front Camera

 2-megapixel

Resolution

 1280x800 pixels

RAM

 2GB

OS

 Windows 8.1

Storage

32GB

Rear Camera

2-megapixel

Battery capacity

7700mAh




Read More
Unknown

How to Wirelessly Transfer Photos from Your Camera to Your Computer

If you’re a prolific shutterbug you know what a hassle it is to constantly pull the SD card from your camera, plug it into your computer, and transfer the files to get to the snapshots you just took. Read on as we show you how to add Wi-Fi based photo transfer to your digital camera.

Why Do I Want To Do This?

This is one of those things that, if you’re the target audience, you’re already nodding your head and saying “Yes, perfect, no more swapping the SD card between the camera and the computer!” but perhaps you’re right on the edge of the target audience and not aware how downright convenient a wireless SD card is.
Introduced several years ago, Wi-Fi enabled SD cards take advantage of the constant reduction and refinement of electronic components to pack in both photo storage and a tiny Wi-Fi radio into the form factor of an SD memory card. Aside from the label they look absolutely identical to their non-networked counterparts.
By replacing your standard SD card with a Wi-Fi enabled card you gain a host of functionality like the ability to automatically transfer your photos as they are taken to your computer without removing the SD card from the camera, automatically (or selectively) uploading them to photo sharing and social media sites, and sending them to nearby mobile devices like your iPad for review.

The primary function and the one that will attract the majority of people, however, is definitely the first one we mentioned: wireless photo transfer to your computer. If you’re constantly taking photos and transferring them to your computer you’ll love the automatic transfer feature—between our work here at HTG and our frequent sharing of family photos on Facebook and the like we easily pop the SD card out of our DSLR a half dozen or more times a day to transfer files and absolutely love how Wi-Fi cards have spared us this routine.
What’s the downside to Wi-FI enabled SD cards? First, the sticker shock. A Wi-FI SD card will typically run you 3-4 times the price of a similar size premium non-Wi-FI SD card. Second, you will need to recharge your camera battery more frequently as the Wi-FI SD card steals power from the battery to run the Wi-Fi radio and associated hardware.
If you’re doing heavy shooting and/or transferring large RAW files you’ll definitely want to either power tether your camera (if you’re working in a home studio setting) or keep a spare battery on hand as continual file transfer and large file transfer are both taxing on battery life.
That said, every generation of Wi-Fi enabled cards has improved upon power management and newer models do an excellent job sipping the battery. Expect to charge your battery more often, but the overall impact on battery life is negligible in the face of the convenience of the speedy wireless transfer.

What Do I Need?

Before all else, you need to check if you even need a Wi-Fi SD card. Although it’s still a fairly uncommon feature a number of newer digital cameras have built-in Wi-Fi. If you have a newer camera definitely double check to ensure that’s not a feature you’ve overlooked!
Second, you need to determine if your camera will support a Wi-Fi SD card. As a general rule if your camera supports SDHC memory cards it will support a Wi-Fi SD card without a problem. For the purposes of this tutorial we’re using an Eye-Fi brand card; you can use the Eye-Fi camera check tool to see if your camera is compatible. The tool is quite detailed and not only tells you whether or not a camera is compatible in a broad sense but lists off any issues you might have with a particular model because of hardware or firmware limitations.

Even if you are considering a different brand of Wi-Fi SD card you can still typically get away with using the Eye-Fi camera check tool because the same general parameters apply across brands.
Note: There are last-gen Wi-Fi SD cards that from years back that will work in non SDHC compliant cameras, but they are no longer in production, and you’ll have to find them used or as old stock on places like eBay.
Finally, after checking out your camera’s feature list and that it supports SDHC cards, it’s time to pick out a Wi-Fi card. As we noted above we’re using an Eye-Fi card but there are other popular models based on licensed Eye-Fi technology from Toshiba and Transcend; look for Toshiba FlashAir and Transcend Wi-Fi branded cards. Although the cards from other manufacturer’s are well rated, Eye-Fi was the first game in town and to this day still has the most mature hardware and software support.
Aside from selecting your card’s storage capacity also keep in mind that other SD card purchasing factors come into play as well such as speed rating. For more information on SD cards beyond the scope of this Wi-Fi SD card article, check out How to Buy an SD Card: Speed Classes, Sizes, and Capacities Explained.

Setting Up Your Wi-Fi SD Card

There are two phases to the setup process. The initialization process that gets your Wi-Fi SD card on your local Wi-Fi network coupled with a simple field test to ensure it is operational and then a more detailed configuration of the SD card’s settings.

Getting the Wi-Fi Card Online

Although you can configure your Eye-Fi to ship images to an iOS or Android device, the initial configuration requires a Windows or Mac computer. Load the SD card in your card reader and navigate to the root directly. Everything you need to get started is in the “START HERE” folder.

Select the subdirectory based on your operating system and run the installation file. After searching for and downloading software updates, you’ll be prompted to run the full installation for the Eye-Fi Center software.

During the installation you’ll be prompted to authorize the Eye-Fi software to pass through your computer’s firewall and and to set up and Eye-Fi account. Even if you don’t intend to use the Eye-Fi sharing tools you still need to create an account to complete the installation. After creating your account sit back and wait for your Eye-Fi card, if necessary, to receive a firmware update.

The first important decision you’ll make during the setup process is whether or not you want the files to be transferred to your computer or mobile device. Our goal is to get the files to our computer for easy sorting, processing, and archiving; select “My computer.”

In the next step, select the SSID of your wireless network and enter the password. The receiving computer and the Eye-Fi card need to be on the same network. It doesn’t matter, however, if your computer is connected to your router via Ethernet though, it’s still considered part of the same network as the Wi-Fi node attached to it.
The Eye-Fi will prompt you to select a social network you wish to share your images with or you can select them later. We recommend setting this feature up later, if you even want to use it, as there are a host of little tweaks and options you may wish to adjust before enabling it.
When you finish the initial configuration process you’ll be prompted to eject the SD card, insert it in your camera, and take a photo.

This photo is your test shot that should be, assuming the configuration went smoothly, be automatically transferred to your computer. In the screenshot above you can see that our snapshot of a little LEGO office worker placed on our office windowsill transferred without a hitch.
The most common cause of transfer errors is aggressive power management on behalf of the camera. Many cameras will immediately begin conserving power within seconds of taking a photo; this doesn’t give the SD card enough sustained power to finish transferring the files over Wi-Fi. You can alleviate this issue with most cameras by adjusting the timeout on the autometering or other features. Check out the Eye-Fi power settings management tutorial for your camera if you run into this problem.

Configuring the Eye-Fi Card

Once you’ve completed the simple test to ensure your card can communication with your home network, pop it back in your computer and open up the Eye-Fi Center software. You can take a moment to look around the software and familiarize yourself with the layout.

Before you continue using the Eye-Fi card, however, you’ll want to take a close look at the settings. Do so by navigating to File -> Settings -> Eye-Fi Card.
There is a lot going on in the configuration menu here that you should really take the time to look over. Let’s take a look at each section and the settings found therein. Although the primary focus of this tutorial is simply transferring files between your camera and computer, the Eye-Fi is mature product that offers a range of tools that are worth taking a peek at. Further, there are options you may wish to toggle for privacy purposes (like the geotagging feature) so we’ll give a quick overview of all the available configuration options.

Under the “Networks” tab you’ll find everything related to connecting the Eye-Fi to the outside world. You can add and remove Wi-Fi networks under the “Private Networks” tab, enable direct ad-hoc networks for connections between devices on the camera (if your Eye-Fi model supports this feature), and configure your Eye-Fi card to use public hotspots so it will upload photos using public Wi-Fi connections while you’re out and about.

Under the “Photos” tab you can change both the local and online destinations for your photos. Under the “Computer” sub-tab you can switch where the files are saved on your local computer as well as how they are sorted and stored. Under the “Online” tab you can enable and configure online sharing through services like Flickr, Facebook, and the like.
The “RAW” tab is effectively identical to the “Photos” tab but is concerned with how RAW camera files are transferred and stored. If you work with RAW it’s really nice that you can decide how to deal with your JPEG images separately from your RAW images. If, for example, you were shooting an event where you wanted both the RAW images to work with at a later date but you wanted to immediately upload the photos you were taking to the event’s Facebook page or the like you could do so using this dual workflow setup (send the RAW to your computer, send the JPEGs to the social media platform).
“Videos,” if your camera can record video, allows for the same kind of configuration outlined above but for videos instead of images.

Eye-Fi View is a service that’s easy to overlook as many people assume it’s premium only and, as they don’t want to pay for a premium service, they don’t use it. Eye-Fi View actually has two tiers, however, the free (which allows you to store your photos for seven days in the cloud for easy sharing and temporary backup if your card is lost while traveling or the like) and the premium (which give you unlimited storage for $49.99 a year).
The “Notifications” tab allows you to toggle email, SMS, Facebook, and Twitter notification alerts that tell you when your Eye-Fi card has shared media on your social network accounts.
Geotagging is an option the privacy conscious will surely want to toggle off; every Eye-Fi photo is, by default, tagged with the location the photo is taken. There’s only one option under the “Geotagging” tab: it’s either on or off.

The final configuration tab, “Transfer Mode” two really useful features. Under the “Selective Transfer” tab you can  toggle between different transfer modes. By default the Eye-Fi will transfer and/or upload every photo you take. If you’re firing off a bunch of photos to get the perfect shot this creates a lot of waste power use and transfer. You can switch from automatic uploading to selective uploading using the “protect” function on your camera. Any photo you protect will be flagged and uploaded. Everything else will remain on the camera for manual transfer or deletion at a later date.
Under the “Endless Memory” tab you’ll find a rather novel (but useful) feature. When “Endless Memory” is active the Eye-Fi will slowly delete old files (that have been safely transferred to your computer or online service). In this fashion you can essentially shoot forever on a single SD card as it will perpetually make new room for new files.

With a little upfront investment and few minutes spent configuring your settings you can easily convert your stand-alone digital camera into a networked camera capable of wireless file transfer and sharing. Have experience with Wi-Fi SD cards and want to share it with your fellow readers? Follow the link below to our discussion forums and share your knowledge.
Read More
Unknown

How to Test Your Internet Connection Speed or Cellular Data Speed

How fast is your Internet connection? Sure, your Internet service provider has given you some numbers, and your cellular provider probably says you get blazing fast 4G LTE. But how fast is it, actually?

What This Does


... 
You can’t just rely on the download speeds you see when downloading files and doing other normal things. Download speeds you’ll see depend on a lot of things, including the remote server and the number of “hops” (Internet routers) in between you and the server. It may not even just be the Internet infrastructure itself — the remote server may only want to give you so much download bandwidth, or it may be bogged down.
Instead, you’ll need to test this a bit more scientifically. The ideal would be to find a server nearby you, one that has a large amount of bandwidth available. You could then try to download from it and upload to it, seeing just how high your download and upload speeds could reach. This ensures you’d just be measuring the last-mile connection speed between you and your ISP as accurately as possible.
That’s why you need dedicated tools for measuring your connection speed.

Best Practices For Connection Speed Testing

If you want to get the most accurate result possible, you can’t just run the tool once without thinking about it. Here’s what you really need to do:
Ensure You Aren’t Using Your Internet Connection: Is someone else streaming Netflix in the other room, or are you downloading files via BitTorrent on your computer? Pause all these applications using your connection before performing a speed-test. Ensure the speed-test application is the only thing using your connection, and you’ll be able to measure it more accurately. If the tool can’t saturate your connection, the numbers you’ll see will be low.
On a smartphone or any other type of mobile data connection, just ensure your device isn’t downloading or uploading data in the background.
Measure More Than Once: A single measurement isn’t the be-all, end-all of connection speeds. Measure more than once, preferably at different times during the day. For example, you may have faster Internet connection speeds during the middle of the night when everyone is sleeping and slower connection speeds in the evening when your neighbors are home from work and using their home Internet connections.
On a smartphone or any other type of mobile data connection, your speed will depend on how many people around you are using data, as well as the signal quality in your area, and other factors. Move around between speed-tests and you can see how your connection speed varies between different locations. As with a wired Internet connection, the time of day can affect things — you’ll probably have a slower connection speed at lunch time in the central business district than you will if you tried the speed test ta the same location on Sunday when no one else is around.

How to Test Your Connection Speed

The actual process of measuring your connection speed is simple. The gold standard for this isSpeedtest.net, and that’s the one we recommend you use. A quick web search reveals many other tools, with even Comcast and AT&T offering their own speed-test applications. Using it on your computer is as simple as visiting the website and clicking the “Begin Test” button.
On a smartphone or tablet, free Speedtest.net applications are available. Download them from your app store of choice, launch them, and test your speed. Remember, if your smartphone is connected to a Wi-Fi network, the app will test the speed of the WI-Fi network. Disconnect from the Wi-Fi network and it will test your smartphone’s data network.
Warning: Using any sort of speed-test app involves both downloading and uploading some data. If you have a limited amount of mobile data, this will count toward your cap. The app works by attempting to download and upload data at maximum speed for several seconds, maxing out your connection. It could use as much as 20 MB of data per speed test, or even more — the faster your connection, the more data it will use. Take this into account.

Yes, there are other speed-testing websites and apps out there. But they all work in a similar way — they provide very fast, nearby servers that attempt to max out your connection. Under these ideal conditions, they can provide you with a reasonably accurate estimate of just how fast your connection is when it comes to both uploading and downloading.
Read More
Unknown

Mobile phone in india under Rs.10000

Smartphones have come a long way since their inception several years ago. In what was supposed to be a high end product, today we're seeing smartphones in the budget segment too. And one of the distinguishing features of a modern "smart" phone is 4G LTE support. Today, we look at four such handsets which could make a big impact on the budget smartphone segment.
The hardware specifications differ from device to device, so take a look at the features list for a better idea on what's suited for you.
Specifications
Xiaomi Redmi Note 4G
Nokia Lumia 638
Lenovo A6000
Micromax Yu Yureka
Display
5.5-inch 720p display
4.5-inch 480 x 854 resolution display
5-inch 720p display
5.5 inch 720p display
Weight
199 grams
136 grams
128 grams
177 grams
Thickness
9.5 mm
9.2 mm
8.2 mm
8.8 mm
Processor
1.6 GHz quad core Snapdragon 400
1.2 GHz quad core Snapdragon 400
1.2 GHz quad core Snapdragon 410
1.5 GHz octa core Snapdragon 615
Rear Camera
13MP with HDR and 1080p video recording
5MP
8MP
13MP
Front Camera
5MP
N/A
2MP
5MP
Storage
8GB (expandable up to 64GB)
8GB (expandable up to 128GB)
8GB (expandable up to 32GB)
16GB (expandable up to 32GB)
RAM
2GB
1GB
1GB
2GB
OS
Android 4.4 KitKat (MiUi 5)
Windows Phone 8.1
Android 4.4.2 KitKat (Vibe UI)
Android 4.4.4 (Cyanogen OS 11)
Battery
3,100 mAh battery
1,830 mAh battery
2,300 mAh battery
2,500 mAh battery
The Lenovo A6000 will break cover later this month via Flipkart and will cost Rs 6,999. From a hardware and software standpoint, it seems like the Yu Yureka from is the best of the lot, but considering that it's only available sparingly through Amazon, it might not be suited for everybody.
The same applies to the Xiaomi Redmi Note 4G and Lenovo A6000 which are an exclusive on Flipkart. So the only smartphone from the list that you can buy instantly is the Nokia Lumia 638, but the fact that it's running Windows Phone 8.1 might not be appealing to everybody.
Read More